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Bhoto Jatra In Patan
Usually, on the fourth day after the arrival of the chariots at the Javalakhel another important event of the festival: showing of the vest ‘bhoto’ studded with jewels is held in Jysetha-Asar (June-July). The vest belonged to a farmer. He received it from the serpent king called Karkot Naga as a reward for healing the eye ailment of the serpent queen. A ghost stole it. On one occasion, the ghost in a human form wearing the vest came to watch the festival of Macchendranath at Javalakhel. The farmer noticed the ghost in a human form wearing his vest and he claimed it. Then, there was a row between them, which attracted the attention of the people around there. However, nobody could judge whom the vest belonged to, that is why the vest kept in the custody of Rato Macchendranath, and publicly displayed it in Javalakhel every year and in Bungamati every 12 years.
The chariot stands at the crossroad until astrologers find an auspicious day for pulling the chariot from the crossroad to Javalakhel: another open area about one kilometer away from Lagankhel. It may stay at the crossroad for several days and even a month. Traditionally, number of astrologers gathered at the pubic place called ‘phalca’ built with sixteen wooden pillars at Mangal bazaar to ascertain the most auspicious day for pulling the chariots. They study the position of stars and planets, and then set the most auspicious day to pull the chariot from the crossroad to Javalakhel. Once the date is set, people from the surrounding areas pull the chariot to the Javalakhel. Sitting at the public building called ‘Kumari pati’, the Patan Living Goddess Kumari watches the chariot passing by on this day.
On the day of ‘bhoto jatra’ people from all parts of the Kathmandu Valley visit Macchendranath at Javalakhel from early morning. Devotees revere the god with the lighting of 108 oil lamps because Avalokitesvara have 108 different incarnations. They bring ‘puja’ offerings to the god. Thus, a religious festival takes place on this day, too. In the late afternoon, an official of the ‘Guthi sansthan’ displays ‘bhoto’ first to the Patan Living Goddess Kumari presiding over the function, then to the head of state present there and then from four corners of the balcony of the chariot to the people, so that people on all sides of Javalakhel can see the vest. This is a great moment for all the people watching the event. Thereafter, a priest climbs up to the top of the spire and drop a copper disc with a face of god to predict the future of that year. If the disc lies face down, means the year will be auspicious and people expect good harvest and prosperity.
After the display of ‘bhoto’ at Javalakhel, every year devotees from Bungamati carry the god on a portable shrine on the shoulder poles to Bungamati for staying there for six months. Musical bands and a unit of ancient army lead the carriers of the god. A religious procession follows them. Devotees from Patan see off Lord Macchendranath at the half way to Bungamati. Thus, end the festival of Rato Macchendranath.
Once every 12 years, Lord Macchendranath returns to Bungamati on the chariot following the route the god had traveled to Patan. Every twelve years, the chariot stays on the large square in Bungamati. On the fourth day after the arrival of the chariot, people celebrate ‘bhoto Jatra’ there again. Devotees from all over the Kathmandu Valley gathered there to revere the god, and watch the ‘bhoto jatra’. After ceremonial display of the vest, the festival of Rato Macchendranath concludes for that year.
Caretaker priests perform a purification rite to Lord Macchendranath before taking him to the temple in Bungamati. At the main entrance to the temple, the idol of Macchendranath stands for washing away the defilement caused by accepting offerings made by people of different castes and indulging in enjoying with the women of questionable purity. After the purification rite, Lord Macchendranath enters the god house to reside for six months before he is taken to his winter abode at Ta baha in Patan.
Note: This year, local people have pulled the chariot to Javalakhel on Saturday, June 25, 2011. After four days, ‘Bhoto jatra’ will be held at Javalakhel.
